Monday, April 6, 2015

20150406. Cambodia. Siem Reap. Big Circuit Temple Tour


As the Sun rises over Angkor Wat

This is a detailed account of our second day tour around Angkor Archeological Park. We started our day with the most amazing sunrise at Angkor Wat. We were completely entranced walking inside the Ancient City of Preah Khan. And we ended the day waiting for the sunset on top of Phnom Bakheng, a temple on a hill. If you are looking for the more famous Bayon and Angkor Wat, you have to check out this link for our first day tour.

This is also part of our seven-day adventure in Siem Reap, Phnom Penh and Ho Chi Minh where we spent three days touring and falling in love with the temples of Angkor. We also filled a day simply exploring the City of Siem Reap and going around its countless Night Markets. We dedicated a full day getting to know hundreds of pigeons flying around the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh. And our last two days were spent in Ho Chi Minh where coffee anywhere and everywhere is just absolutely good.

Angkor Map



Second Day Tour
- Sunrise at Angkor Wat
- The temple-mountain of Baphuon
- Angkor Big Circuit Tour:
  -- Preah Khan
  -- Neak Pean
  -- Krol Kou
  -- Tasom
  -- East Mebon
  -- Pre rup
- Sunset at Phnom Bakheng

Itinerary:
Day 2 April 6 (Monday)
0430 Wake up call and waited for our Tuktuk driver
0500 ETD. Victory Guest House to Angkor Wat
0530 ETA. Angkor Wat. Pool area just outside the Retaining Wall

For our second day visit, we woke up even extra earlier to witness the stunning sunrise at Angkor Wat. There were already a lot of people when we got there. By a lot, I mean a few hundred people. And a lot more came as the minute passed. It was such a celebrated event that I think more than a thousand of people came to greet the sunrise at Angkor Wat. It is something the you need to experience at least once in your life.

The first few moments of the waking world

0540 First light of the Sun

The first few moments of the waking world
As the Sun rises over Angkor Wat

Everyone stays quiet until the sun is settled in the sky

0715 ETD. Angkor Wat to Victory Guest House
0730 Breakfast. Prepare for Big Circuit Temple Tour
0815 ETD. Victory Guest House to Angkor Thom
0840 ETA. The temple-mountain Baphuon

Path to Baphuon 

From a distance, this ranks as my third favourite view of all temples in Angkor. The first and the second place would be between Angkor Wat and Bayon.

Before we moved on to the Big Circuit Temples, we came back to the majestic temple-mountain that is Baphuon. This temple was the only temple in the Small Circle Tour that we weren't able to explore on our first day. But we saw it and it was so beautiful and enticing that I knew I would regret not going back. To get to Baphuon, you have to cross a narrow but a very long bridge. Man-made lakes fills the empty space of each side of the bridge. From the beginning of this bridge, you would already see how majestic a temple mountain should be. I could only imagine how it was in the olden days when this lake was still clean. Even with the murky water there were flowers and lotuses floating beautifully on the water. It wasn't hard to imagine if the ancient Khmer Empire used this beautiful walkway for royal weddings.

And then it was time to finally meet Baphuon

The large wall that depicts the reclining Buddha at the backend of Baphuon

1030 Walked from Baphuon to Terrace of Elephant
1050 ETD. Terrace of Elephant to Preah Khan

On the way to the Ancient City! Photo by Joy

1100 ETA. The ancient city of Preah Khan

The Ancient City of Preah Khan. Photo by Joy Hipolito

Walking around the majestic temples of Angkor renders you speechless and in marvel. But walking around Preah Khan just makes you imagine how the ancient people have lived their day to day lives. Being inside the ruins gives you a different perspective of the Angkor people. And a longing to belong to their time.

Going further and further inside the city felt like I was going back in time. It wasn't hard to imagine how little kids from distant past used to play along the elaborate and long hallways of the once great city of Preah Khan.

I saw a picture in the information center here at Preah Khan on how this temple looked like on the rainy season, and I am now tempted to go back on to get the chance of being inside Preah Khan while its raining. It's not a beauty that every can appreciate, the rain has different effect on people. But me? I love the rain. And I wondered how the floors of the temple would look like covered in small pools of water. What if the system of small canals in this city gets filled again? I think it would be a wonderful experience.

More than a Temple: City to discover

Walking around Preah Khan

Joy at Preah Khan

1230 ETD. Preah Khan to Neak Pean
1245 ETA. The artificial island that is Neak Pean


There is nothing much to see in Neak Pean itself but it's an interesting walk from the drop off point to here. Neak Pean is separated from the road by a large stretch of what looks like a marshland. Don't worry, you don't have to walk through the marsh. They've provided a narrow bridge just enough for two person to stand side by side, and it's elevated enough so you can how wide the area is. Some of the locals walk through the water catching fish with their makeshift spears and bear hands. It's a landscape view that you would normally see opening an epic movie. It's a completely different scenery and yet it also felt natural. Nothing felt out of place.

A seeming wasteland that provides life

Neak Pean

1315 Lunch at Neak Pean Restaurants

There are a lot of eateries in Neak Pean. You can always find canteens around Angkor, but this is a good place to eat lunch because of the wide selection. Easier to find a bargain as well.

1400 ETD. Neak Pean to Ta som
1405 Passed by Krol Kou
1420 ETA. Ta som


1500 ETD. Ta som to East Mebon
1515 ETA. East Mebon
1545 ETD. East Mebon to Pre rup
1550 ETA. Pre rup

East Mebon and Pre rup shared the same style and colors. But both have different beautiful features. These two temples just amazes you from the foot to the top. I easily realized my natural affinity for Temple-mountains. Pre rep is a larger counter part of East Mebon. One can see East Mebon from the top of Pre rup.

East Mebon
Pre rup

Pre rup by Joy

1615 ETD. Pre rup to Bakheng Hill
1645 ETA. Bakheng Hill

Atop Bakheng Temple. Waiting for the Sunset

Remember that Bakheng Hill closes at 5:30PM. But really, it is best to get there early so you can have a beautiful spot for the sunset. The top of Bakheng Hill is a 15 minute trek inclined to about 35-degree angle . If you absolutely can't do this because of the day's exhaustion and heat, you can opt to take an elephant ride up to the top of the hill and to the entrance of the temple. I do not condemn all elephant rides, but please always check the health of the elephant. Some elephants across Asia are treated like friends by their trainers, but sadly, some of them looks weak or sad, I don't think I would like to support any kind of business where they don't take good care of our animal friends.

At the last few moments of the short trek, I definitely think that you'll forget the day's exhaustion. I wasn't prepared to see a the temple on the hill. I forget there was a temple altogether, so I was surprised by the initial view of the temple. I had to stood a few meters outside the large outer wall for a full 5 minutes to remember the beautiful sight. Sorry, I was so taken a back that I forget to take a photo. This is absolutely a nice place to end the day.

Atop Bakheng Temple. Waiting for the Sunset

Sunset atop Bakheng Hill by Joy

1745 Sunset
1800 ETD. Bakheng Hill to Victory Guest House
1830 ETA. Victory Guest House. Free time.

Where to stay?
Victory Guesthouse
Telephone number: (855) 012 516 566 / (855) 012 451 286

Alternative Options: Mad Monkey, Mandalay Inn, Bou Savy Guest House
Note: Always check Tripadvisor and Hostelworld for recent reviews and ranking of any place to better guarantee a nice visit.

Sample Tour
Day 1: South Gate of the Angkor Thom, Central Angkor Thom (Bayon, Baphoun, Terrace of Elephant, Terrace of Leperking), Takoa, Ta Prohm, Banteay Kdey, Srah Srang and the World Heritage Angkor Wat. Visit Sunset at Bakheng Mountain or Angkro Wat.
Day 2: Preah Khan, Neak Pean, Krol Kou, Tasom, East Mebon, and Angkor Wat.
Day 3: Visit Kbal Spean (River of Thousand Linga), Banteay Srey, Banteay Samré, Rolous Group (Bakong, Preah Ko, and Lo Lei)

My Favourite Sites:
Day 1: Bayon, Angkor Wat, Baphuon, Ta Prohm
Day 2: Preah Khan, East Mebon
Day 3: Kbal Spean, Banteay Samre, Bakong Temple

Itinerary Summary:
Day 2 April 6 (Monday)
0430 Wake up call and waited for our Tuktuk driver
0500 ETD. Victory Guest House to Angkor Wat
0530 ETA. Angkor Wat. Pool area just outside the Retaining Wall
0540 First light of the Sun
0715 ETD. Angkor Wat to Victory Guest House
0730 Breakfast. Prepare for Big Circuit Temple Tour
0815 ETD. Victory Guest House to Angkor Thom
0840 ETA. The temple-mountain Baphuon
1030 Walked from Baphuon to Terrace of Elephant
1050 ETD. Terrace of Elephant to Preah Khan
1100 ETA. The ancient city of Preah Khan
1230 ETD. Preah Khan to Neak Pean
1245 ETA. The artificial island that is Neak Pean
1315 Lunch at Neak Pean Restaurants
1400 ETD. Neak Pean to Ta som
1405 Passed by Krol Kou
1420 ETA. Ta som
1500 ETD. Ta som to East Mebon
1515 ETA. East Mebon
1545 ETD. East Mebon to Pre rup
1550 ETA. Pre rup
1615 ETD. Pre rup to Bakheng Hill
1645 ETA. Bakheng Hill
1745 Sunset Viewing
1800 ETD. Bakheng Hill to Victory Guest House
1830 ETA. Victory Guest House. Free time

Expenses:
Day 2
6 *18/3 Angkor Tour. Victory Guesthouse
.75 Coconut
5 Lunch at Neak Pea
.75 Water
4.5 Dinner at Victory Guesthouse
6.4 *19/3 Accommodations. Victory Guesthouse
_________

USD 23.4

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